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Carabiner, an essential piece of gear in itself and also required for usage of many other tools
Over the course of the three days in Tekhla, we spent time learning and refining our skills. I immersed myself in the various lessons on how to use different techniques and equipment. There were several interesting tools that could be used as anchors while navigating varying rock features for completing a climb and ensuring safety.
Rock pittons had to be inserted into the rocks but only used where there was no other option. First because they had to be hammered into the rocks. If the rock surface was brittle, it could crack and could cause a portion of the rock to break away. Plus, regardless of the kind of rock surface, it caused damage to the rock- it is not left in its original, natural form. As climbers, it was important to be extremely conscious and cautious while using pitons.
A friend inserted in a crack to make an anchor
Friends, another fascinating device that is crucial while navigating cracks and fissures. I learned that it should always be inserted in an upward position, meaning its head should be up. In the case of a fall, its teeth tighten and create more friction with the rock hence, holding it steadfast and arresting the fall. If it is placed facing downward, there is a high chance that it can be plucked away. There were friends of different sizes for cracks of various depths and dimensions.
I found lessons on their proper usage as interesting and crucial as the ones introducing us to such tools. A rope or carabiner of the climber was never put through the anchor (rock piton, friend, etc.) directly. It was always passed through a sling attached that would direct the slight movement and shift to the sling rather than the main anchor itself. This extension and distance between the anchor and climber gave some flexibility in movement and was to ensure that the anchor does not move or weaken due to the climber's movements.
The tools for climbing I held in my hand had gone through various modifications and innovations over many many years. Some people dedicated their lives to building, refining these tools meticulously and in return tools derived their name from them, and rightly so.
Jumar- upper portion is attached to the fixed rope, lower eye to the climber
Jumar is one such example. A breaking device, it helps in ascending on fixed ropes in difficult terrains instead of climbing directly. It is especially useful in rescue operations where time is at a premium. Named after inventors Adolph Jusi and Walter Marti, the jumar was developed and the first version introduced in 1958. The device helped me climb up but locked in place as my weight fell on it and its teeth created friction with the hope. Thus I couldn’t fall, only be suspended at the point the jumar was on the rope.
This is a good alternative to the Prussik knot, a manual way which serves the same function but requires much more effort and time plus may give way in extreme conditions.
We also learnt about creating anchors from natural features without these tools. A tree or rock feature on top of a climbing route could be used as well depending on the situation and conditions. These tools are essential for any climber and not having even one of these in adequate quantity could mean an unsuccessful climb at best and a huge safety hazard at worst.
Read more: Attempting the long pitch
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