Postcards from Antigua

Walking through an open air museum in Guatemala

I have been to historical towns in the past and they are replete with history, museums and stories but seldom do I find myself being in one where I feel it is speaking to me. Walking through Antigua was akin to walking in an open air, cobbled street art gallery that drew me in..

Santa Catalina Arch - one of the iconic structures of Antigua was made to serve as a discrete passage for nuns to cross over to the schools where they taught from their dwelling. Back in the day, they had to avoid any contact with other people including being seen in public! The solution - this beautiful arch that houses a secret passage

As I walked through the town, the clinking of cups in cafes and the aroma of food gave way to an architectural delight right when I turned the corner and was least expecting it. Right there, bang in the middle of the town where cars, cycles and walkers passed by, stood the masterpieces of Baroque style architecture. In a nutshell, that is how I explored Antigua - I stumbled on different ruins and structures on my walks and by taking a different route every time I stepped out.

Iglesia y Collegio de Compania de Jesus

This is one of the first monuments I chanced upon when I turned a corner and it was a massive facade, dwarfing the cars and humans walking around it.

Catedral de Santiago

While Antigua looks picture perfect and exudes a calm, happy vibe, the erstwhile capital of Guatemala has endured its share of pain. It has witnessed and survived many natural disasters including volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. It ceased to be the capital of Guatemala when an earthquake in 1773 ravaged the city and killed many people. The Spanish colonists ordered the shift to the capital of Guatemala but some people chose to stay.

Antigua served as a political, cultural and economic centre before Guatemala city became the new capital

I met quite a few people who distinctly remember the series of devastating earthquakes in 1773 and some even had a narrow escape but still chose to stay. I was amazed at how people first settled and then continued to stay in a place where nature was so volatile. Though I couldn’t exactly unearth why they chose to stay back in a region prone to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, some said they felt they belonged here and others said that the land was holy and protected by the Mayan spirits.

Parque Central - Spanish architecture with a Latin spirit

The clear grid structure of the city is even more vivid from an elevation as is the Volcan de Agua

The architectural beauty is only enhanced by the majestic mountains with Antigua in its lap. On a clear day, one can see the Volcan de Agua and Volcan de Fuego from the city. Some prefer to take in the views from Antigua, adventurous spirits like me are enticed to do hike and get closer…more on that soon!

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University of San Carlos, the oldest university of Guatemala

If you look carefully, the top panel feature has three mountains representing the volcanoes surrounding Antigua, which highlights their importance and the reverence locals have for them

The volcanic ash has also made the soil rich which is why after years of abandonment, Antigua gradually became an important hub to cultivate coffee and avocados which are exported to many countries such as Mexico and the US. Agriculture remains a major employer and includes important exports from Guatemala (Cardamom topping the list followed by coffee, sugarcane and how can I forget cocoa!).

The city embeds the modern into the traditional

Antigua has been testament to both the old and modern history and aesthetics. It is a treat to the eyes to walk through cobbled streets lined with houses and shops of myriad colors. The cafes are beautiful, earthy and very tastefully designed. I was pleasantly surprised to catch a glimpse of Starbucks - even that was remarkably different and visually much more appealing than its urban counterparts.

And I was just as stunned when I returned at night. As I absorbed its grandeur, it took me a second to realize it was the same as the first one I saw

How about doing laundry with a view? This site had water supply and platforms that originally served as not only the community laundry area but also as a place where locals socialized

Iglesia La Merced ( Church Merced )

I was relieved to see the place has still managed to retain its charm despite the attention and visitors it gets. This is not only reflected in its buildings but also the demeanor of people, the easy pace and welcoming vibe. Despite it being a popular spot, I didn’t feel stuck in a tourist center and could have spent way more time in Antigua than I thought I could before I arrived!